I line up the raw edges of the bias binding and the neck edge, leaving 1/4 inch free at each end. I match the center point of the bias with the center of the neck, pinning the two pieces with right sides together. I haven't removed the pleater threads yet, because the trick to an even edge on top is to stitch ON the pleater thread line. Works every time. Here's the pinned neck edge:
And here I am basting the two edges together. Put the bias side down. It is easy to see the pleater thread--just go slow. THERE IS NO SUBSTITUTE FOR BASTING. Baste first and don't cry later! Baste exactly on the pleater thread.
After checking the seam placement, stitch it for real. Trim the seam to 1/4 inch. Fold the bias twice, and pin in place on the inside, like this:
Now to whip it down on the inside while I watch the football game! Leave a comment if you would like more explanations. Next up--french seams on the sides and sleeves, the hem, and the buttons.