Monday, February 10, 2014

Vogue 1312--The Bodice Dart

Now that I have a bodice pattern for a woven fabric to use with Vogue 1312, I went back to the original bodice pattern and cut a bodice using my knit lining fabric that I plan to use for the navy ponte version of the dress.

After constructing the bodice and trying it on, I had a gaping armhole pointing down towards the bust. This told me I would still need a dart and FBA for a knit bodice. I pinned out and marked the gaping dart in the armhole onto my pattern piece, like so:


 
 I drew a line perpendicular to my bust point across to the side seam.


I slashed through the drawn line and I also slashed up towards the closed dart at the armhole, spreading the pattern until it laid flat:


I then added more tracing paper and drew in the new dart at the side seam.


This maneuver simply transferred the gape at the armhole (the dart) to the side seam where I wanted it to be. Slashing and spreading to flatten the pattern piece gave me the FBA I needed.

And since it is always fun to compare the Before and After photos of patterns, here are the original and modified pattern pieces.
 
And here, at long last, is my completed and lined bodice!

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