Thursday, October 11, 2007

Muslin, Part 3

Back to the sewing room I went with this project. This time I took in the princess seam above the bust point another 1/4 inch and moved the sleeve up onto the shoulder another 1/2 inch. I altered my left side only (on the right in the photo) so that I can compare the two sides. By doing it this way I can see if I'm making the situtation better or worse. Here's the current status of the front:

I need to smooth out the princess seam in the bust area, and maybe move that seam a bit toward the center.

Here is the side view:

I need to lengthen the front so it won't rise up. Ignore all the sleeve puckering--I've moved to hand basting this for the fine tuning. This sleeve looks better because it is sitting up higher on my arm. The front armhole area is now smooth, with no more bunching.

Here's the back view:

I think I still need to move the sleeve in on the back armseye a bit, and perhaps go up even farther on the shoulder. Notice the yellow arrow in the photo above; there is still a bit of a fold there. If I pinch out 1/8 inch horizontally in the armseye (where the arrow is) I think this problem will be solved. Or I may need to remove 1/8 inch from the back shouler only.

I might also need to make the back darts just a tad deeper to restore some shape to the blouse, but that will be one of the very last adjustments I make.

The fitting really begins with the shoulder, so that is what I've been focusing on. Then the bust. Then the sleeve.

I can tell you that this blouse is much more comfortable now than before. Yes, I still have it on. It is fine while I type. It's amazing what an effect moving the sleeve up has on the fit--the back and sleeve aren't pulling, and I still haven't trimmed the armhole seams.

Why am I going to so much trouble with this blouse? I like all the views included in the pattern. I can envision this view made up in several ways, and each would look entirely different:
  • in a solid color
  • in a nice print challis
  • worn belted over a straight skirt or narrow trousers
  • piped princess seams
  • circular ruffle on the sleeve cuffs instead of pleats
  • collar embellishments-beads, sequins, contrast
  • as a chiffon or georgette overblouse over a tank or tee top

Back to it.

1 comment:

Anonymous said...

You seem to have the same problems that I do when trying to fit around the "D size" bust. If there isn't a "princess seam" in a paper pattern I make a dart in the armhole (to take up that excess fullness in the armhole) and slash the pattern about two inces down from the armhole on the side seam so it opens up and forms an underarm dart (aiming for, but finishing a couple of inches short of the bust point). In clothes bought from shops I take the sleeves out, make an armhole dart, then reset the sleeves usually higher on the shoulder line (sometimes nearly two inches!)as you have suggested. It sure makes a difference to the fit.