I'm still working on the muslin from the previous post. Here's where the front is at this point:
I let out the side seams 1/2 inch on each side. That gave me a little more room around the body. Then I let out the princess seams in the front the same amount, and also lowered the bust at the same time. The bust point is better now and I can improve this even more when I reccut the pattern.
At that point I tried the blouse on and had horizontal wrinkles above the bust, pulling towards the armhole. Compare the two sides in the photo. On my left side (that will be the right side in the photo), I took up an additional amount in the princess seam ABOVE the bust and re-sewed that seam into the adjacent sleeve. I left the left side unaltered so you can see what a difference this makes in the fit. This is a big improvement.
I have shortened the shoulder seam about 1/2 inch, by simply moving the sleeve up. Although this looks better, the sleeve is still down a bit on the arm and needs to move up even more.
Here's the back--compare the two sides (the right side of the photo is the unaltered one):
There are still wrinkles happening, and the sleeves are still way off.
A side shot of the unaltered side:
And a side shot of the altered side:
Better, but still not there. See how the sleeve just hangs there, like some pitiful lifeless little thing? So sad. As I mentioned, there is a lot of ease in the sleeve caps. But since the sleeves aren't sitting in the right spot, all that ease is just hanging at my upper arm, instead of being up on the "ball" part of the arm.
I definitely need to go up a size for width around the body and increase the bottom width so this isn't so snug on the booty. I'm thinking I need to leave the extra length in the sleeve, too.
Back to the drawing board.