Tuesday, January 4, 2011

Part 2 Muslin, Advance 8524

Altering the bust dart, or in my case, lowering the entire underarm dart and shortening the waistline dart, is not really that difficult.

The first step is to decide where your bust needs to end. For me, I use the Red Pin Method, like this:

Put on a decent bra and the muslin and use a Red Pin to mark the spot about an inch and a half away from your bust point (the nipple). The dart should stop short of the nipple.

Okay, now that all the perverts are here, let's get on with it.

Here is the muslin laid flat. See the Red Pin?

Now I'm going to draw a line parallel to the existing dart. A see-thru quilting ruler comes in really handy.

Now I'm going to the inside and redraw the original dart in its new location.

Step 1, mark the same line on the inside:

Step 2, measure the width of the original dart and draw the newly located dart:

If you're working with an actual pattern instead of a fabric muslin, simply cut out the original dart on the pattern, move it, and tape it in place. Easy. Sew up your new dart, and admire.

Or maybe, don't admire. I still see problems. Do you?
More to come.


KimP said...

Thanks for explicitly explaining how to move a bust dart. I've read a lot of fitting books that say something like, "lower your bust dart" but don't give the step by step instructions on how to do it! Thanks for the red pin method!

Dawn said...

I just found your blog- Thank You! Thank You! Thank You! for taking time to post your pics and explain the 'why' so clearly! Excellent!